Chapter 1 - Before you Begin
It starts before the scissors ever touch the sheet.
Latex is alive. Okay, not really. But it’s a living material in how it moves, reflects, and reacts. Ruka always says: you have to talk to it, if you want a good result. That’s why the first step is not cutting — it’s connecting.
Handmade sheets have tiny irregularities. That’s part of their beauty — and their challenge. Here’s how to get to know your sheet before you make it into something unforgettable.
Handmade sheets have tiny irregularities. That’s part of their beauty — and their challenge. Here’s how to get to know your sheet before you make it into something unforgettable.
Light it Up!
Before you cut, take a moment to see your latex — really see it.
Lay it flat on a glass table with a light underneath, or hold it up against a window. This helps you spot the little details that might stay hidden in regular light.
Lay it flat on a glass table with a light underneath, or hold it up against a window. This helps you spot the little details that might stay hidden in regular light.
Here’s what to look for — and why it matters:
Dark flecks or clusters
Usually harmless, but they could be:
- Pigment build-ups from the mixing process
- Slight impurities in the raw latex
They won’t usually affect performance, but for visible areas — like chest panels or decorative pieces — you might want to avoid them for aesthetic reasons.
Edge Zones
(outer ~5cm)
These areas often show:
Slight variations in thickness
Dense collection of bubbles, as they love edges
Minor edge distortion
They’re not unusable — just less reliable for clean tension seams. Perfect for detail pieces, appliqué, or areas without major stress.
Tiny white dots
These are likely air bubbles trapped during pouring.
Good news: a small, sealed bubble won’t tear like a cut — it’s usually not a failure point.
But: avoid using them in stretched or fitted areas, as they could weaken over time or just make you feel insecure wearing.
But: Avoid them, if they are bigger or even like holes. That can happen, and you don’t want them in your pieces, especially if they are that easy to find…
Think of them as beauty marks — some are fine, others best kept off-stage.
Good news: a small, sealed bubble won’t tear like a cut — it’s usually not a failure point.
But: avoid using them in stretched or fitted areas, as they could weaken over time or just make you feel insecure wearing.
But: Avoid them, if they are bigger or even like holes. That can happen, and you don’t want them in your pieces, especially if they are that easy to find…
Think of them as beauty marks — some are fine, others best kept off-stage.
Brighter Areas
These might be slightly thinner zones. They can be fine for looser pieces — but avoid them for tight or high-stress patterns like elbows, crotch seams, or necklines.
Pro Tip:
Sometimes it is not impurities, but the pattern!
With our sparkle-heavy or galaxy-style designs, the spotting process is trickier.
Most white dots are actual glitter pieces reflecting light or brighter star dots — not flaws. Gently tilt the sheet in the light. If it flickers like a star, it’s glitter. If you can’t see through it if you pull a little and it stays solid, it’s a star. Try a bit, you will see the difference
Most white dots are actual glitter pieces reflecting light or brighter star dots — not flaws. Gently tilt the sheet in the light. If it flickers like a star, it’s glitter. If you can’t see through it if you pull a little and it stays solid, it’s a star. Try a bit, you will see the difference
Also, bright appearing areas may also be just a more translucent color. Check by simply touching the sheet and feel, how it is to stretch the areas. If this behaves fine, it is most likely fine, especially on patterns.
Mark the spots - Plan the Cutout
Before you grab your rotary blade, plan where your pieces will go:
Use a soft marker, or post-its to mark areas you want to avoid (like bubbles or pigment buildup)
Before you grab your rotary blade,
plan where your pieces will go:
- Avoid the marked areas from before, at least for high duty areas
- Also try to avoid the outer few centimeters, unless you are sure they are fine
- Align with the flow of the pattern
- Cut from the cleanest areas first
- Think about symmetry — if one sleeve has a swirl, maybe the other should too?
And don’t forget to add seams to your patterns, as you need space to glue them.
